catbirdlake in the Catskills

as seen in a shop window in Catskill.

For nature lovers and outdoorsy types, the Catskills region is a spectacular option. It is a relatively short drive from New York City — or Ithaca for that matter — you can be there in just around 2 hours. Whether you’re there to relax or leaf peep, ski at one of the several mountain resorts, or embark on some rigorous hiking, no matter what the season you’ll find an abundance of wholesome mountain fun waiting for you at every turn.

Woodstock

If you’ve never been to the region, Woodstock is a great place to begin, a super cute village peppered with artisanal shops and boutiques, bookstores, vintage clothing and record shops, and no shortage of cute restaurants, cafes and bars. If you come on a weekend, Narnia is an impeccably curated vintage clothing store which also specializes in a mind bogglingly beautiful arrangement of crystals.

part of the exquisite crystal display at Narnia Vintage

For food, I love the tapas at Szilvia and the outdoor deck is a really nice place to relax and watch passersby, but for a fancier meal, the Barn at Cucina is a really nice option, situated in an old farmhouse. If proper date night is your plan, you might also consider driving 10 minutes out of town to Mt. Tremper to the Foxfire Mountain House (or stay overnight at the inn) a vintage (re: trendy) Catskills lodge situated on ten acres that features a farm-to-table restaurant with a Moroccan-tiled veranda. If a more laid back vibe is what you’re after, Mt. Tremper is also home to The Pines, a hip spot popular among locals serving healthy comfort food - if it’s warm out, dine outside on the patio under a sea of twinkling Edison bulbs. Sometimes on the weekends Shendaken Bake holds a pop up bakery there —with some of the most luscious pastries I have ever tasted. Follow them on instagram and see for yourself and also find out if they’re holding any pop up events while you’re in town.

Plan to go for a hike at Overlook Mountain. You’ll know you’ve arrived at the parking lot/trail head when you see the Buddhist temple surrounded by colorful prayer flags - hike up to the fire tower, or do one of the shorter woodsy loops - just watch out for Rattlesnakes which are known to inhabit the area.

Saugerties

From Woodstock, drive east 20 minutes to Saugerties, another lovely town bordered by the Hudson River on one side and a breathtaking view of the Catskills to the west. One of my all-time favorite walks is Falling Waters Preserve, a scenic riverside preserve that leads to a stunning waterfall, with little pebble-y beaches or well positioned benches located at various spots along the waterfall to hang out and read or meditate along the way. While you’re in the area, a must-see is Opus 40, best described as a large environmental sculpture spanning 6.5 acres created by sculptor and quarryman Harvey Fite - one man’s lifelong love affair with the bluestones harvested from the quarry on his property. Check to see if the covid restrictions on capacity and presale ticket requirements still apply and if so make an appointment because it’s a popular place. Plan to spend about 2 hours exploring the property, walking trails and museum.

A glimpse of the sheer awesomeness you’ll find at Opus 40

Catskill

A picturesque mountain town with the Hudson River on one side and Catskill Park to the east, with the picturesque Catskill Creek flowing through town, Catskill is worth a visit. The Hudson River School painter Thomas Cole made Catskill his home — the historic site, containing his house and studio, is now a tourist destination. Stop for authentic Mexican food at La Casa Latina, or stay for dinner at the New York Restaurant serving delicious Polish and American cuisine, and a good place to grab a happy hour drink in the stylish bar.

There is no shortage of bucolic walks in Catskill, some of my favorites include: The RamsHorn Livingson Audubon Sanctuary, a 5 minute drive from downtown Catskill featuring a lovely trail system that takes about an hour to traverse, along with a lookout tower for birders. I also like the nearby Cohate Preserve which meanders along the edge of the Hudson River. On a hot day, the Mawignack Preserve is another nice option and has many areas where you can access and swim in the river.

Hunter, Tannersville, Wyndham, Lexington

Further west you’ll find the towns of Hunter and Wyndham, known for the ski resorts of the same names, along with with many smaller villages in the area including Tannersville, a cute mountain-y village lined with novelty shops and cafes — the Tannersville General Store is a great place to go for pancakes — and Lexington to the west, a tiny village that was a one-time haven for experimental art and performance in the 1980s, but is beginning to see some new life due to some ambitious art-loving developers, such as the renovations taking place at LexArts space as well as the soon-to-be general store rumored to be opening soon next door to the Lexington post office. There are some great hiking trails in the area, like the Hunter-West Kill Wilderness area, and the West Kill Brewery down the street from one of the trailheads is a cool spot with nice views and outdoor space to hang and taste craft beers and nibble on snacks on the weekend.

The Wyndham Path

One of my favorite hikes in that part of the Catskills is Codfish Point at Platte Clove Preserve - featuring a breathtaking waterfall. The Elm Ridge Wild Forest in Wyndham is a lovely trail system for hikers and mountain bikers. For an easier walk or a low key jog but with 10/10 for scenery, do the loop at the Wyndham Path, which features a story book that unfolds along the way to entertain the kiddos, or perhaps venture to Tannersville to the Mountain Top Arboretum - all the beauty of a Catskills hike but less of a rigorous commitment. Higher Grounds cafe near the Wyndham Path is great for espresso drinks, smoothies, sandwiches and breakfast to go.

the majestic waterfall at Platte Clove Preserve

On recent visits to the area I’ve noticed a general uptick in gentrification momentum, and I personally think that area could use a bit of updating. I was particularly pleased to see the new Brooklyn-esque hipster coffee shop in Hunter called Fellow Mountain Cafe, as well as the uber-chic Scribner’s Lodge, a beautifully-designed (almost too much so) southwestern vibe whose hotel, restaurant and ski-lodgey lounge welcomes a “new kind of urban traveler” (or so says their website), located right across the street from the entrance to the ski resort. A cocktail on the deck at the lodge’s Prospect Restaurant is well worth the visit if only for the sunset mountain views, but since you’re there you may as well stay for dinner - or come back for lunch at the cute little pop up takeout lunch shack located out front by the swimming pool.

dining el fresco on the deck at Scribner Lodge’s Prospect Restaurant

Phonecia and Boiceville

About 20 minutes west of Woodstock is the village of Phonecia, and the smaller Boiceville. Boiceville has a branch of Bread Alone Bakery (also found in Woodstock and Rhinebeck) supplying bread to many area eateries but a good stop to grab a coffee, salad or sandwich to pack in your cooler for lunch. The Ashokan Rail trail can be accessed from Boiceville (among many other spots), a scenic spot for a morning jog. For me, one of my greatest — if not simplest — pleasures as a traveler comes from discovering who makes good local espresso, buying a morning oat milk latte (with a spoonful of honey) and drinking it on a bench before taking a morning walk on a new trail. There’s just something about the freedom in that feeling that gets me every time.

One of my absolute favorite Catskill hikes, the Tremper Mountain Trail, is located in Phonecia - a very pretty light-filled forest trail which climbs steadily to a fire tower. For lunch stop at the trendy and delicious famous Phonecia Diner.

Between Phonecia and Woodstock there’s a state park called Kenneth L. Wilson, a solid choice for car or tent camping but which also has a scenic little lake with picnic tables and grills for picnicking and an easy but beautiful hiking trail which begins at the parking lot at the lake area where you can also find a public restroom.

Margaretville & Big Indian

This area is an awesome part of the Catskills for hiking - one of the best is the Panther Mountain Giant Ledge trail - a rigorous system of trails that require proper attire (hiking boots). Margaretville, the biggest town in what I consider to be the central Catskills, seems to me to be an under appreciated gem of a town, with its many cute boutiques, shops and cafes, including Café Marguerite, a charming little espresso shop and bakery, and the Margaretville Country Store, one of those delightful, well-curated boujee little markets that sells everything from kitchenware to organic produce to fancy chocolates and any other sundries or supplies you may need during your trip. Eat dinner at Trattoria Locale for delicious housemade pastas, bread and artisanal pizzas. After a rigorous day on the slopes, stop for apres ski (or go change and come back for dinner) at Peekamoose restaurant in Big Indian.

The gigantic Katterskill Falls are also in this general vicinity, in a cute little town called Palenville, which features the Circle W Market, a general store and eatery well worth the stop, another one of those places that has everything you could ever need and more, including a restaurant with a cute outdoor seating area, and an excellent deli counter for grabbing lunch to go.

taking an afternoon break from the challenging terrain at Plattekill

Skiing and Riding in the Catskills

During ski season, Hunter and Wyndham are the biggest ski mountains in the area, each offering easy access from NYC. Though, slightly more off the beaten path, Belleayre and Plattekill are my two favorites. I love the laid back folky mountain vibe at Plattekill and their lodge is comfortable and welcoming. Belleayre feels more ‘civilised’ with its luxurious, wide forest trails. Collectively, the tall, wild, moguley steeps at Plattekill and the groomed green and blue cruisers at Belleayre make for the perfect weekend.

For Nordic skiing, there is a nordic center at Belleayre and you can rent skis at the ski center across the street from the parking lot. Also, Mountain Trails cross country ski center in Tannersville offers 35 kilometers of groomed trails on hundreds of forested acres. Other options include the Foxfire Mountain House whose groomed trails are open to the public for a day pass fee. If you’re looking to ski without a fee, try the Andes Rail Trail in the adorable mountain village of Andes west of Margaretville.